Chaos, coffee, and quiet reflections in the heart of Vietnam.
Everything started the moment we landed at Hanoi airport and were waiting for a taxi. What a rush outside! The uniforms of the local police officers immediately made us think: Are we back in the post-Soviet 1990s in Ukraine? Of course, we were aware of the communist aspect of life in Vietnam, but we did not expect to see so many symbols everywhere on the streets. That was just the first impression of two people originally born in a post-Soviet world. Later, we relaxed and understood that it was not as intense as we had initially imagined.
Another thing that caught my eye was the smog. It was quite hard to breathe, even after coming from humid Bali. We eventually made it to the apartment we booked. While walking to a local store on the way, a total stranger actually approached Bogdan with an offer to have fun with girls.
After that, we barely managed to haul our small luggage up to the third floor via a set of tiny, narrow stairs — we had rented an apartment in the Old French Quarter. Right in the middle of our room, there was a round wooden bathtub alongside a standalone bathroom. To top it off, very loud karaoke echoed from a neighboring flat during the night. What is happening here? Welcome to Vietnam!
The Old Quarter ↗︎
Most of our Hanoi exploration took place in the Old Quarter and around Hoàn Kiếm Lake. Life moves so quickly here: street food vendors, various shops, cyclos, thousands of tourists, and long queues outside viral street food locations. At the same time, local artists and residents simply go about their daily lives — cooking food, washing pots, and burning votive paper money for traditional rituals.
The first thing we did was find a good spot for our very first bowl of authentic Vietnamese Pho Bo. Later, we tried the famous coffee with condensed milk at a cafe that Angelina Jolie once visited — another viral location here.
Closer to the evening, we decided to get some sushi. In a funny twist, the food was delivered on a rope from the third floor (where the kitchen was located) right down to the street level, where the waiter grabbed it and brought it directly to our outdoor table. We were still trying to get used to all of this— it was fantastic.
During our evening stroll, we stumbled upon a cheap spot with draft beer in a place that looked like a local canteen. We could hardly believe prices like that still existed.
Train Street ↗︎
We did not have a specific plan for Hanoi, so we simply walked from street to street, led by pure curiosity about what might be around the next corner. The only intentional destination on our mind was the famous Train Street. It is essentially a narrow alley lined with cafes on both sides of the railway track, where you can sit inches away from the passing train. I tried my first egg coffee here, though I wouldn’t personally recommend it as I didn’t find it tasty. However, the adrenaline rush of seeing a real train move so close to our knees was completely insane. Be careful if you go, but if you have the chance, experience it for yourself.
Nearby, we found delicious food at Bún Chả Cô An, serving another traditional dish called Bun Cha. It is quite rich and fatty, but delicious nevertheless — a absolute must-try in Vietnam.
Hoàn Kiếm Lake ↗︎
I really enjoyed walking around the lake in Hanoi and watching the people nearby — everyone was so unique and interesting. At one point, a young Vietnamese boy approached me and started a conversation. As I learned later, it is a common practice for local pupils to walk around the lake and chat with tourists to practice their English. What a wonderful initiative! Frankly, I felt a bit embarrassed that my English was worse than that little boy’s.
Even more so, he completely stunned me when he began asking very serious, adult questions about the situation in my own country regarding the russian war in Ukraine. I was deeply touched that he was aware of it, but at the same time, I felt that no child in the world should ever have to wonder about the reasons for war. I will remember that conversation for a very long time — how miraculously it happened, and how quickly and suddenly the boy disappeared back into the crowd, leaving me deep in thought.
Eventually, I was brought back to reality by the heavy beat of music, which you can hear everywhere in Hanoi — and probably across all of Vietnam. Elderly people love doing outdoor exercises to music in the parks, which was another thing I absolutely fell in love with about this country.
In the middle of our stay in Hanoi, we escaped for two days to take a cruise through Lan Ha Bay.
Final Thoughts
It was hard to breathe at times, but what a rhythm and vibe! The crowds of tourists and local daily life coexist so naturally here. It is an absolute overload of noise and chaos, yet you feel like you never want it to stop. Starting our journey through Vietnam in Hanoi was a brilliant decision that we loved, and we highly recommend it to anyone visiting. Just be ready for an extraordinarily vibrant local atmosphere.
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